Long celebrated for its ability to transform the way we look and feel, the cosmetics industry has more recently been undergoing a slow but radical transformation of its own, in the shift towards sustainability.
As environmental concerns continue to dominate the news, consumers are demanding more eco-friendly and ethically produced beauty products. In response, the cosmetics industry is taking steps to minimise its environmental footprint, and better contribute to a greener future.
As with so many sectors, the sustainability concerns of the cosmetics industry are many and multifaceted. Broadly speaking though, the recent concentration of concerns spans product development, responsible sourcing and testing of ingredients, ethical supply chain operations, and waste minimisation and reduction. So, is it really possible for the cosmetics industry to enhance both our natural beauty, and help maintain the natural beauty of our planet at the same time?
Product Development and Formulation
Cosmetics companies are becoming more transparent with packaging and its content, particularly in response to increasing customer scrutiny. In 2018 for instance, the UK Government took the bold step of issuing a total ban on the sale of rinse-off cosmetics and personal care products containing microbeads, to reduce harmful plastics from entering and polluting our waterways. The mildly abrasive microplastics formerly used in the cosmetics industry are typically now replaced by more natural equivalents like ground nut shells, stone fruit pits, or even used coffee grounds, as modelled by innovative brands like UpCircle.
The EU followed the UK lead, implementing a total ban on all kinds of microplastics within fast-moving consumer goods earlier this year, with the intention of eliminating all nonbiodegradable microplastics by 2025 across cleaning products, personal care products, and cosmetics.
Sustainable Sourcing and Ethical Supply Chains
Product development must also be built on a foundation of responsible sourcing of component ingredients and ethical supply chain practices. Palm oil, for instance – often criticised for its culpability in deforestation and habitat destruction – has seen a notable evolution in usage over the last few years, across both the food and cosmetics industries. Industry standards, like the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) have come into force to encourage responsible palm oil production and sourcing furthered through legislation or consumer pressure.
Ethical concerns in the supply chain of the cosmetics industry have likewise been gaining significant attention in recent years. The complexity of the supply chains in many large cosmetic companies though – particularly the long supply chains for compound ingredients – can make it difficult to untangle problematic practices. To address these concerns, various stakeholders, including consumers, advocacy groups and regulatory bodies have pushed for greater transparency and accountability. A paradigmatic example is Mica – or the mineral dust that produces the shimmer effect in some foundations – which has previously undergone scrutiny for usage in its natural form. Brands like Fenty by Rhianna, which debuted in the UK in 2017, came under fire for usage of ‘blood mica’ from the Jharkhand mines in India, where child labour had been suspected in production. The inability to fully trace the origins of raw materials in complex compounds has led some companies – the UK’s Lush for example – to eschew natural mica altogether, and instead concentrate on innovation in synthetic replacements, which are significantly easier to monitor and control.
Product Testing Best Practices
Animal testing is a similarly abiding ethical and sustainability issue in the cosmetics sector. The UK has had a ban on animal testing for consumer safety of cosmetics and their ingredients in force since 1998 – typically denoted to consumers by the ‘Leaping Bunny’ logo. This has also led to a ban on the sale of any cosmetics tested on animals in the UK, further restricting the practice. Developments of alternative testing methods like in-vitro testing and computer modelling have thankfully proven not only more humane, but also more statistically reliable. This transition reflects a broader global trend towards cruelty free cosmetics – with all member states of the European Union now also subscribed to the ban, driving progress towards more humane and responsible practices in this area.
Waste Reduction
So too does the cosmetics industry have a part to play in waste reduction. Cosmetics companies are now actively working to minimise waste by adoption of practices such as refillable containers, recyclable packaging and reduction of single use plastics. The UK Waste Hierarchy regulations – established back in 2011 – promote waste prevention clustered around the ‘4 Rs’ of Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Recover, strongly favouring reusable and recycling packaging. Several UK companies – including Lush and the Body Shop – have long prioritised this ‘closed loop’ type approach, which is also being taken up by newer market entrants, like the zero-waste, zero-plastic contender Ethique.
In April of 2022, the UK also introduced a plastic packaging tax, aimed at further reducing single use packaging. Though aimed more broadly than at just the cosmetics industry, this tax now applies to any packaging that does not contain at least 30% recycled plastic. The UK is also set to participate in coalition of nations in negotiating the UN’s forthcoming global plastics treaty. Due to be finalised in 2024, the treaty will set out measures to reduce plastic pollution at all parts of the plastic life cycle and will be legally binding. The British Beauty Council also notes that many brands are committing to 100% recyclable packaging by 2025 in line with the UK Plastics Pact.
The Semi- Glossy Future of the Cosmetics Industry
Cosmetic companies are thus working to improve their approach to sustainability using ethically sourced and tested ingredients and minimising waste at every development step. The UK has traditionally been one of the more progressive and proactive countries in implementing laws and standards to foster sustainability within the cosmetics industry, whether that be in banning microbeads, steering away from animal testing, and towards ethical supply chain practices, or reducing reliance on single-use plastics.
At Partner Executive we are excited to be part of the ongoing evolution of the cosmetics industry, having worked with some great brand names to find their next generation of leaders. We understand that finding and onboarding the right talent can be crucial in the continued evolution of the sector, particularly in meeting ever-changing consumer demands. The shift to greater sustainability in the cosmetics industry has never been more critical, and we are committed to supporting the sector as it seeks to enhance both our beauty, and the beauty of the planet for generations to come.
If you have any comments or questions on this topic, please feel free to contact Partner Executive on 0203 178 4996.
